Alocasias are tropical aroids from Southeast Asia and eastern Australia, grown for their large, dramatic leaves. They grow from a rhizome or corm, which is why they can survive a period of dormancy and why growers often sell small corms (“bulbs”) as well as plants.
Care depends a lot on the type. This guide covers the general rules, and the difference between the small, velvety jewel alocasias and the large elephant ears.
Two kinds of alocasia
- Jewel alocasias such as Alocasia cuprea, Black Velvet and Silver Dragon: compact, with thick or velvety leaves. They need high humidity, a very airy mix and careful watering.
- Elephant ears such as Alocasia macrorrhizos, A. odora and large hybrids like ‘Gageana’: big, fast-growing plants that like more water and more light, and do well outdoors in warm climates.

Light
Most alocasias want bright, indirect light. Too little light gives long, weak stems and small leaves; harsh direct sun scorches them. Large elephant ears tolerate more sun, especially outdoors with humid air. Turn indoor plants regularly, because the leaves grow towards the light.
Soil
Use a loose, well-draining mix: potting mix with plenty of bark and perlite, and some coco coir or peat to hold moisture. Jewel alocasias need an even chunkier mix, or a semi-hydro setup. Always use a pot with drainage holes; soggy soil is the quickest way to lose an alocasia.
Watering and humidity
Water when the top 2–3 cm of soil is dry and let the excess drain. Elephant ears like more water in warm weather; jewel alocasias rot easily, so let them dry a little more. Most alocasias want 60% humidity or more; jewel types do best in a cabinet or humid corner.
Temperature, feeding and dormancy
Keep alocasias between 20 and 30 °C and above 15 °C. Feed with a diluted balanced fertiliser every two to four weeks while they grow. In cold or dark months many alocasias slow down or go dormant and lose their leaves. Water sparingly, keep the corm warm and wait: new leaves usually return in spring.

Propagation from corms
Alocasias produce small corms around the main rhizome. When you repot, separate them, place them on moist sphagnum moss or perlite in a covered container, and keep them warm and bright. They sprout in a few weeks to a few months. Larger plants can also be divided at the rhizome.
Common problems
- One old leaf yellowing as a new one opens: normal.
- Several yellow leaves at once: overwatering, cold or low light.
- Drooping: the soil is bone dry or has stayed wet too long; check the roots.
- Fine speckling and webbing: spider mites, common on alocasias in dry air; see how to protect indoor plants from pests.
For one species in detail, see our Alocasia puncakborneensis care guide.
Frequently asked questions
How often should I water an alocasia?
When the top 2–3 cm of soil is dry. Large elephant ears need water more often than jewel alocasias, which rot easily.
Why is my alocasia losing all its leaves?
It is probably going dormant because of cold or low light. Keep the corm warm, water sparingly, and it usually regrows.
Is alocasia toxic?
Yes. Alocasias contain calcium oxalate crystals. Keep them away from pets and small children.
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