Alocasia puncakborneensis, often sold as Alocasia ‘Puncak Borneo’, is a Bornean alocasia with glossy, deep green arrow-shaped leaves. The name refers to Puncak Borneo, a mountain in Sarawak, Malaysian Borneo. Like most alocasias it grows quickly when it is warm, bright and humid, and sulks when it is cold, dark or sitting in wet soil.
This guide covers the light, soil, water, temperature and humidity it needs, and how to fix the problems growers see most often.
Alocasia puncakborneensis at a glance
- Botanical name: Alocasia puncakborneensis (Araceae)
- Origin: Borneo
- Light: bright, indirect
- Temperature: 20–30 °C (68–86 °F); keep it above 15 °C (59 °F)
- Humidity: 60% or higher
- Soil: airy, fast-draining aroid mix
- Watering: when the top 2–3 cm of soil is dry
- Toxicity: contains calcium oxalate; keep away from pets and small children
Light
In the forest, alocasias grow under the canopy where the light is bright but filtered. Indoors, give it a bright spot without direct midday sun, which scorches the leaves. In a dark room the stems stretch and new leaves come out smaller. A grow light running 10–12 hours a day works well. Turn the pot every week or two so the plant grows evenly.
Soil
Use an airy aroid mix that drains quickly, for example orchid bark, perlite or pumice, coco coir and a little compost. Choose a pot with drainage holes that is only slightly larger than the root ball: a pot that is too big holds water the roots cannot use, which leads to rot.
Watering
Water thoroughly when the top 2–3 cm of soil is dry, and empty the saucer afterwards. In warm months, when the plant is growing, that may be once or twice a week. In cooler, darker months the soil dries much more slowly, so water less often. Room-temperature water avoids shocking the roots; rainwater or filtered water is a good choice if your tap water is very hard.
Temperature and humidity
Borneo is warm and humid all year. Aim for 20–30 °C and keep the plant away from cold drafts and air-conditioning vents; below about 15 °C growth stops and leaves may yellow. Keep humidity at 60% or higher. A humidifier is the most reliable way to do that indoors; grouping plants together also helps. A cheap hygrometer tells you where you stand.
Fertiliser
Feed with a balanced liquid fertiliser at half strength every two to four weeks while the plant is pushing new leaves. Stop feeding when growth slows in the cooler months.
Repotting
Repot every one to two years in the warm season, when roots fill the pot or grow out of the drainage holes. Move up only one pot size.
Dormancy
Many alocasias slow down or even drop most of their leaves when it gets cold or dark. That is not always death: the underground corm can stay alive. Water sparingly, keep the plant warm, and new leaves usually return when conditions improve. Check the corm is firm before you give up on it.
Common problems
Drooping leaves
Usually a watering problem: either the soil is bone dry or it has stayed wet for too long. Feel the soil and look at the roots if the soil is wet. Cold is the other common cause.
One yellow leaf at a time
Alocasias often drop their oldest leaf when a new one opens. If only one old leaf yellows at a time, that is normal. Several yellow leaves at once point to overwatering, cold or low light.
Spider mites
Dry air invites spider mites, which leave fine speckling and webbing under the leaves. Isolate the plant, wipe both sides of the leaves with soapy water, then treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil every 5–7 days until they are gone. Higher humidity and regular leaf cleaning help prevent them.
Root rot
Soft, brown, smelly roots and a mushy stem base mean rot. Remove the plant from its pot, cut away everything soft with clean scissors, and replant in fresh, airy mix in a smaller pot.
When your plant arrives
Our alocasias travel bare-root. Pot them the day they arrive in slightly moist aroid mix, keep them warm, humid and out of direct sun, and expect one or two older leaves to yellow while the plant settles. Our guide on helping plants recover after shipping explains the first week in detail.
Frequently asked questions
Is Alocasia puncakborneensis rare?
It is less common than popular alocasias such as Alocasia zebrina or Alocasia ‘Polly’, and availability depends on what growers have ready.
Why is my Alocasia puncakborneensis losing leaves?
Losing one old leaf as a new one opens is normal. Losing several leaves quickly usually means cold, overwatering or low light, or the plant is going dormant.
Is Alocasia puncakborneensis toxic to pets?
Yes. Like other alocasias it contains calcium oxalate crystals, which irritate the mouth and throat. Keep it out of reach of pets and small children.
Current availability is shown on the Alocasia puncakborneensis product page.
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